How to explain the experience of riding a wave:
August 6
This morning I was at Leighton for some clean, two foot barrels, all to myself. I caught myself enjoying the moments on the face, and then being a word-hoarder, I wanted to verbalize why I like this experience. Read on…
Forward comes the scintillating bank of green water. You paddle and then, you are:
Free. Freed from the contraints of being a slow, land-dwelling mammal. Liquid. All motion buffered by gentle and forgiving silk. Effortless. Pollution-free, you float along the edge of one of nature’s rhythms. Moving. Hericlitus was right to say that stasis is death. Absorbed in the Now. Rousseau’s Noble Savages play on the Australian littoral. Out-racing the breaking lip. Tim Winton was pleased to see men do something pointless and elegant.
What have you accomplished?
Freedom-drenched liquid under the sun.
